In present-day Romania, a decreasing number of craftsmen practice what's thought to be a centuries-old craft. They search the forest for a fungus (真菌), which grows within trees and sends out shelf-like mushrooms a few inches wide. The fungus is shaved lengthwise into thin strips. Those strips are then stretched to form broad sheets, which can be crafted into hats, bags, jewelry, and ornaments. As far back as 1903, Tlingit craftsmen in what is now the state of Alaska were recorded crafting purses out of a material from agarikon fungus.
However, the craftsmen's process in the early times was about searching for materials, not cultivating them for mass production. Today, the biotechnology company MycoWorks in the US is pioneering in cultivating mycelium (菌丝). Mycelium is a structural wonder—soft, dense, and strong, making it a great potential replacement for leather.
The operation starts with agricultural waste, like sawdust (锯末), which is heated to remove existing microbial life. Once done, it goes into deep plates of varying sizes. Then fungus joins the party, digesting and growing. In some cases, fabric can be added for the mycelium to weave around. The sheet of mycelium is eventually peeled off the wood blocks, and growth comes to an end. It can be easily mistaken for traditional leather.
MycoWorks is one of a wave of innovators, all of whom assume that a better understanding of mycelium can redefine the limits of fashion and design. In recent years, MycoWorks' products have been used in designer bags and pillows. CEO Matt Scullin praises mycelium as a material in fashion, "It has a bit of a soft touch, and it has a bounce. It can absorb the oil s and heat from your fingers when you touch it." "The early efforts appear to be more moral, and improve eco-footprint. Products made from such material are fully biodegradable—allowing for a future in which dealing with an old pair of shoes might mean simply composting (堆肥) them," he added.
